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Australian Journal of Pharmacy : November 2005
business of beauty Skin care: a growing market One of the biggest changes in the beauty market over recent years is the rise of the ‘cosmeceutical’ skin care product-prod- ucts which can claim some therapeutic benefit for the skin. They contain active ingredients and vital nutrients to slow down, and in some cases help reduce the appearance of, the visible signs of ageing. The Terry White Chemists Group was one of the first to really take cosmeceuti- cals seriously, according to co-founder Rhonda White. She said the Terry White store at Knox in Melbourne was the first to incorporate a new ‘anti-ageing skin care’ aisle. ‘Population changes are driving the demand for cosmeceuticals, and the desire to look good and slow down the ageing process is increasing,’ said Andrew Vidler, executive director of the Terry White Chemists Group. ‘Our understanding and knowledge of the long-term effects of not looking after our skin in earlier years is increasing, while at the same time people are taking better care of their skin during their teenage and early adult years. ‘Terry White Chemists Group’s approach to cosmeceuticals involves extensive product research. ‘There’s a huge number of products on the market, so it’s important we are con- stantly evaluating the product offering and determining which product lines are genuine and live up to their claims.’ ‘The growing desire to look after our skin, combined with an evolving product offer, means the cosmeceuticals industry has significant growth potential.’ Rhonda White said the term ‘anti-age- ing’ was no barrier to marketing success. ‘When we first talked about it, the crit- ics said that no-one would ever stand under a sign that says “anti-ageing skin- care”. ‘Population changes are driving the demand for cosmeceuticals, and the desire to look good and slow down the ageing process is increasing’ —ANDREW VIDLER Mr Vidler said the cosmeceuticals mar- ket was rapidly changing, which meant that pharmacies that wanted to be suc- cessful in the area needed to always be up to speed with the latest offering. ‘The cosmeceuticals industry has seen a convergence of traditional skincare and more scientific products, and we’re now looking at an increase in highly efficacious cosmeceuticals over the coming years,’ he told the AJP. ‘However, now everyone is! It is a key segment that is growing rapidly, particu- larly toward the specialist treatments. ‘Research shows that women 35 and older are looking for anti-ageing products, and the demographics go right up to the 65 year-old age group.’ Working with suppliers There are several ways in which phar- macists can improve their working rela- tionships with beauty suppliers, accord- ing to Stephen Box, national sales manager for skin care brand Nivea at Beiersdorf. ‘Be prepared to invest some time with them, so they can demonstrate the bene- fits of what this category can deliver to their total business,’ Mr Box said. ‘Spend time to discuss current and potential trends, new innovations, what the suppliers believe the consumer behav- iours are in this category. ‘Discuss the demographics of your cus- tomer base, so the supplier can assist in meeting your customers’ needs.’ Many companies, including Nivea, offer in-store training for pharmacy assis- tants on skincare; better trading terms with strong range compliance; gift with purchase offers and help in improving point of sale displays and material, he said. Ms Franklin said that the Heat Group had developed a ‘hero’ program in order to work more closely with pharmacies and help them build their beauty businesses. ‘Don’t be daunted by wondering how you’ll build the business. Suppliers are here to help. ‘Building beauty is not that hard, and we’re here to work with pharmacies to get their market share back.’ s 894 ? THE AUSTRALIAN JOURNAL OF PHARMACY VOL.86 NOVEMBER 2005